The traditional Thai water buffalo race thrills the crowds

Boys scurry, duck and weave through crowds to protect themselves from the stifling heat before dumping buckets of cooling water on burly cattle waiting to compete in the annual traditional Thai buffalo races in Chonburi on Sunday.

The noisy, muddy and slightly chaotic annual tradition marks the start of the rice-growing season — with the eastern province’s festive atmosphere taking place for the first time in two years.

In the main event, four pairs of harnessed buffalo gallop across a decked rice field while intrepid racers sprint barefoot through the shallow, muddy waters, trying to control their beasts and stay upright.

“Before the race starts, we’re a bit excited and nervous,” said Sompong Ratanasatien, 33, soaked and breathing heavily after his last fight.

The trickiest spot is the start line, he said, where racers have to wait for the official starting whistle while trying to maneuver the heavy beasts into position and keep them steady.

“After that, it depends on our buffalo and how it matches my ability,” said Ratanasatien, who has had a winning streak with his two-year-old heifer, Kao.

Powered by a small metal-tipped bamboo whip, the normally peaceful animals are unrecognizable as they rampage across the water field.

Combat is broken down by weight and size, with the heaviest creatures being slightly slower to a trained eye but requiring significantly more skill to control.

And the racers who work and train with the buffaloes for weeks in preparation do not always have the upper hand.

Numerous races have had false starts as the hapless human racers were – literally – dragged through the mud.

“I don’t think normal people can do that,” said Within Lueanguksorn, who traveled from Bangkok to watch the races.

“There is a relationship between the people and them (Buffalos),” added the 38-year-old.

The animals often looked like they were about to spiral out of control as they thundered across the finish line, beating apart any spectator foolish enough to stand nearby.

Racer Noppadon Yindeesuk, 45, admitted tradition can be dangerous.

“It could get a bit dangerous if the buffaloes run too close together because there could be an accident – so drivers have to be careful,” he explained.

Still, he said he would be up against two of his buffaloes – worth about 150,000 baht ($4,200) each – Parewa and Pete.

“They’re over two years old and they won the race last year,” he said with a big grin, adding that he trained with them every three or four days.

But there was one important point in Sunday’s spectacle, Yindeesuk said.

“I participate in the buffalo race because I try to keep our Chonburi traditions about good rice, good buffalo.”